Day 8: A meeting with the bitches. Fishguard to Solva

A blue sky, fair breeze and full sail.  A good time to get the squeezebox out

For once, the mischievous machinations of the tides were in our favour. We were aiming to repeat our smooth transit of the Bardsey Sound with a similar strategy for Ramsey.  That is, to let the tide race-away until it slows, then hop on-board for a smooth ride before it turns and the tidal gate closes again.  And last night's calculations had declared that we had time for a leisurely vegetarian cooked breakfast in Fishguard before weighing the anchor. Having experienced local yachtsman Tim on-board for a second day certainly made crewing much easier.

Site of the shambolic Napoleonic mini-invasion at Carreg Wastad Point

Soon we were rounding Pen Anglas, Carreg Wastad Point and then Strumble Head.  With a fair breeze and blue sky, we sailed past all the other spectacular north Pembrokeshire NT places, such as Garn Fawr, Abermawr, Abereiddi and St David's Head. In about an hour, we were heading inexorably into the jaws of Ramsey sound, surrounded by jagged reefs with ominous names such as the Craig Gafaeliog (grabbing rock), the Horse, the Bitches and the Shoe, we were carried comfortably on the last gasp of the tide race.

Escaping the Ramsey Sound into St Bride's Bay

The expanse of St Bride's Bay opened out before us and with the wind on the beam reach, we had a cracking sail along the Treginnis peninsula to Solva.  Negotiating its twisted approach into calmer waters, we were reminded that to arrive at a secluded fishing village by boat gives you a stronger sense of arrival than by any other means.  After all, it's the act that defines the place and ultimately, it's spirit.  I for one had the words of one of Solva's most famous sons, Mike Stevens, in my head as I approached:  "Mae ysbryd Solfa'n galw nawr"  (Solva's spirit calls me now).

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